Mr. Brailey - it sounds like you have been into this compressor, so I am wondering if you could answer some questions I have on the Craftsman compressor?

1. I saw a video for a Porter-Cable compressor that requires removing the pump unit from on top of the tank assembly to access some of the cover screws and I was wondering if this was required on the Craftsman compressor or will the covers just separate after removing the screws?

Porter-Cable video:

2. Do you know which company might have actually made this Craftsman compressor?

3. Do you know where I might find a wiring schematic or repair manual for the Craftsman? I have the owners manual.

Again, thank you for the information regarding the need for a long torx screwdriver. It is information like this that is a great help.

For some reason my lengthy explanation, with seven photos, didn't post. Have to go back to work, so I will try again tonight.

Does anyone know if Joomla, which this site runs on, has a limit on post length, number of photos, or size of attachments?

Catapultman3,
OK here's my fifth try at a reply. I reduced the photos to 1/4 their original size and I hope they still show what I wanted them to show. Yes I'm rewiring and installing a new pressure regulator on my Craftsman.

1. You do not have to remove the compressor from the tank to perform any repairs on the system. What you do have is a challenge at getting the cowling off the unit. Here's how I performed the magic.
a. Unplug the compressor. Photo 1 is mine with the cowling partly removed.
b. Drain the tank.
c. Get a very long T20 to get down the long holes on the left side of the cover. Photo 2/3 My kludged T20
tool and the inside shot of the tunnels which house the left two cowling screws. Remove both screws.
d. Remove the right side cowling screw.
e. Remove the air filter. Photo 4. The cowling won't come off unless you remove the air filter first.
f. Using a large flat screwdriver pry the cowling apart at the indentations located around the center
seam. Photo 5 shows the indentation on the edge of the cowling. It looks like a notch. Care should be
used to prevent the cowling from cracking. Work the cowling from the bottom starting at either the
front or the back.
g. The left side of the cowling has the power switch and the hose that connects the shut off switch to
the output manifold. The power switch comes out easily by compressing the top and bottom of the switch
and gently rocking it out. Photo 6.
h, The hose from the shut off switch to the output manifold goes through the left half of the cowling. I
plan on cutting a slot from the hose to the edge of the cowling so I can remove the cowling and give
me some room to work. Photo 7.

2, It appears to be a Porter-Cable compressor. I checked the Porter-Cable web site and found that the part numbers are exactly the same as those used by Sears. Sears probably had Porter-Cable build this model as I was unable to find a comparable compressor in the Porter-Cable catalogue.

3. I have the owner's manual in a PDF format file. I was unable to locate a maintenance manual that would show the wiring diagram. To be honest the wiring is rather simple. I purchased a new wiring harness, shut off switch, shut off hose and clamps and four air filters for under $50. Rather than trying to crimp connectors, which I have zero skill at doing, I just purchased a new wiring harness. One thing to remember is to photograph the existing wiring, and put some form of identification on each wire, be that tape, or permanent marker, so you don't connect things wrong when you reassemble the unit.

OK, that's all I have for you. I hope your son-in-law can find my explanation helpful.

If he has any further questions just ask and I'll do my best to find an answer.

Once I get the parts I'll update the doc and maybe tell you why photo eight has a charred wire.

Mr.Brailey - what a fantastic reply. THANK YOU. Thank you for the information, but especially thank you for your time. I have ordered him some parts and a long T20 screwdriver, so when he gets a chance (which I just found out may not be until Thanksgiving) he should be good to go.
He was using the compressor to blow out his sprinkler lines for the winter when the compressor stopped. He was able to blow out one sprinkler section and then the compressor quit. He said the on/off switch felt bad (no positive feel to the rocker and it wouldn't lock in position). Of course he was unable to locate the "proper" switch, but I suggested just getting a properly rated toggle switch and hooking in up and let it hang down to test the compressor. That switch, of course, did not help. I couldn't find a wiring diagram, but I noticed on the parts breakdown that there was a pressure switch, too. I am guessing that the on/off switch and the pressure switch are in series with the motor and act as safety devices.

While continuing to try to find out what company may have actually made the compressor, I came across the site below that had some information on Sears/Craftsman units. If this list is correct, "921", as the first three digits of the part number, indicates it may have been made by the Sanborn - Powermate company. Perhaps you and others might find this site useful:

vintagemachinery.org/craftsman/manufacturers.aspx

Since you have the top cover off, I guess there is no wiring diagram decal there! That would have been too easy.

Again, thanks, especially for your time.

Mike

Yes, you are correct. Thank you. I was able to get a hold of the E106614 screws and as you and mr.brailey indicate, they are T20 torx head.