Craftsman 6Hp/30 gal - can't recharge w full tank

8 years 6 months ago #1644 by FLAir5
So I got the tank back up to pressure again, and same thing, struggles to start, eventually trips breaker. I loosened the compression fitting on the transfer tube from the head, and while there was no active air rushing out, when I threw the power switch, it fired up immediately and effortlessly. So does that narrow it down to the check valve? Might I have gotten a bad one? If that it, this $100 pressure switch is going back! Thanks

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8 years 6 months ago #1646 by MTR-Admin
Well, if the Check Valve is defective you should certainly get air back-feeding through the Discharge Tube when you loosen the compression nuts and remove it.

If you pump the unit to pressure and it shuts off (or trips the breaker in this case) and you remove the Discharge Tube from the head (or Check Valve end, doesn't matter) and no pressure leaks from the Check Valve or Air Tank, the Check Valve is in good shape; it's closing after the units shuts off and keeping air in the tank.

Just to confirm, the above is accurate in this case, yes?

- MTR

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8 years 5 months ago - 8 years 5 months ago #1662 by FLAir5
Thanks MTR...yes, this is accurate.

I shot a quick video to show you what its doing. If I loosen that discharge tube, the motor fires fine, no air leaking. But when I reattach, the motor just can't turn over as you'll see in the video. Thoughts?


www.dropbox.com/s/jl4k5bkwzeup934/IMG_2726.m4v?dl=0

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8 years 5 months ago #1666 by MTR-Admin
The video helped, thanks!

Alright, what you have is either a bad start capacitor (most likely) or a defective motor starter switch (a bit less likely).

You can find out how to clean up the contacts on the motor start switch at the below link:

www.mastertoolrepair.com/images/How%20To...Starter%20Switch.pdf

You can find out how to test the start capacitor at the below link:

www.mastertoolrepair.com/images/How%20To...%20a%20Capacitor.pdf

This symptom is pretty indicative of a bad start cap, as the capacitor doesn't have enough "juice" to kick the motor in and turn the pump. The run capacitor could also be defective, so I would have both tested. If you don't have a voltmeter then I would have an electrician test them for you.

Let me know if you have any other questions, but I hope this helps!

- MTR
The following user(s) said Thank You: FLAir5

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8 years 5 months ago #1667 by FLAir5
Great, thanks, I'll give it a shot!

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8 years 5 months ago #1676 by FLAir5
MTR - so I got into the plastic motor shroud which houses the Caps, and looks like the starter/centrifugal switch. I starter going towards the start cap, and going to discharge and test...but while I was I noticed the switch. Does this look right (see pic) - there is not a contact post (or whatever you call it) on the left side of the switch. Clearly this is a cheap motor, or inferior to the all metal one you show in the PDF you sent me, but the concept seems the same. But, does that look right that its only on the right side, or do you think it broke off on the left. The only thing that has me question whether its normal or not is that on the right side in the pic, at the bottom of that post/flap, there is a copper contact beneath it, but that copper contact doesn't exist on the left. Let me know your thoughts. If you think that looks normal, I'll keep moving on to troubleshooting the next items - if not, is this even replaceable? Almost looks molded into the plastic shroud. A Google search on this model doesn't really bring anything up since this is an older compressor - parts seems very limited. Thanks!
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