Husky 1820F Piston Seal Problem

7 years 2 months ago #2183 by aesculus
Husky 1820F Piston Seal Problem was created by aesculus
I have replaced two of the piston seals (9040012) on my Husky 1820F compressor. I checked the installation video and the seal is installed correctly. After a few hours of use the compressor struggles to get up to 140 lbs of pressure (the cut off pressure) and then I heard a loud pop and a change of sound from the compressor.

Pulling it apart I see that the seal has stretched and tucked in between the piston so it is no longer sealing. I have checked the cylinder wall and see no scratches or scoring marks and feel no ridge with my fingernail at the bottom of the stroke.

What is causing the seals to fail and what is the recommendation at this point?

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7 years 1 month ago #2185 by MTR-Admin
Replied by MTR-Admin on topic Husky 1820F Piston Seal Problem
Thanks for the post!

I reached out to the manufacturer and below is some information I received from them.

Looking at your wording carefully a particular statement stuck out to me, that after a few hours of use was when the compressor began struggling since the repair and not necessarily in a shorter duration. I would check the valve plate to assure that it is not partially broken or that the head gasket center strip is not leaking or missing. Anytime these oil free piston rings break, it is usually due to extreme heat temperatures. I would advise you to do a paper test against the air filter. Turn the unit on and bring a piece of paper near the air filter. It should be sucked straight to the air inlet. If it is moving back and forth this indicates a gasket leak or They are resistant to above 500ºF. It is possible that the valve plate is not operating correctly or that the gasket is leaking air on the head side. This would cause air to reciprocate within the head/piston area generating a spike in heat. Also, being an oil free unit, I have had customers ask me previously what they should use as a lubricant. These are designed to operate with absolutely no lubricant as they would cause a fire hazard! Also, if the tank is losing pressure after the unit is shut off, I would make sure to examine the check valve (the main one-way valve in the tank which holds the air in the tank). When the check valve leaks, it forces the pump to work harder to create pressure as the air held within the tank is escaping causing a back pressure generating more heat. There are no known common defects of the piston rings.

Hope this helps.

- MTR

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7 years 1 month ago #2186 by aesculus
Replied by aesculus on topic Husky 1820F Piston Seal Problem
Thank you for the comments. I am one step ahead of you on the valve plate/reeds. I replaced that and the gaskets too.

I'll try the paper test just to confirm it's working properly. The bolts are as tight as I can possibly make them on the plate.

The unit seems to hold pressure when off, at least for a few hours but I have not done an extensive test at high pressures.

Is 140 lbs the correct cut out pressure? This seems kind of high to me and I thought it was more like 120 lbs when new, but cannot remember. It can take like 20 minutes to build to 140 lbs and that in itself could cause a great deal of heat I would suspect if the unit is continually running.

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7 years 1 month ago #2187 by MTR-Admin
Replied by MTR-Admin on topic Husky 1820F Piston Seal Problem
Actually, the pressure switch for the H1820F unit is pre-set for 155 PSI max, so that is the cut-off pressure.

IMHO, I've always thought any pressure over 120 PSI is too much strain on a small oil-free pump like is on this unit.

We have had one of these units that no matter what parts we replaced, it still wouldn't pressurize to its max PSI so it could shut off. We replace the rod, ring, valve plate, gaskets....everything, so let's hop you don't have one of these units.

- MTR

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7 years 1 month ago #2188 by aesculus
Replied by aesculus on topic Husky 1820F Piston Seal Problem

We have had one of these units that no matter what parts we replaced, it still wouldn't pressurize to its max PSI so it could shut off. We replace the rod, ring, valve plate, gaskets....everything, so let's hop you don't have one of these units.


I may have one of the units. :( :(

Is there a way to reduce the off pressure? I would be happy with turning it off at 130 lbs.

BTW this is a picture of the cylinder wall. It's stained (perhaps because of the heat situation) but not scored.

Would sanding it with 1500 grit paper help?
Attachments:

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7 years 1 month ago #2191 by aesculus
Replied by aesculus on topic Husky 1820F Piston Seal Problem
Here is what I have done. Only time will tell if it works or not:
  • I sanded the cylinder wall with 1500 w/d sandpaper wet
  • Made sure the reed plate was oriented with the small holes on the intake
  • Made sure the gaskets were on the correct side and facing properly
  • Super torqued the pressure line fittings well beyond their initial resistance
  • Gave the pressure switch mechanism a bit of WD40
  • Lowered the off pressure to 135 lbs

Before I lowered the pressure I noticed the unit was pushing the cut off pressure of 150 lbs. Deciding not to challenge that I felt that 135 lbs were enough for me (high pressure is never my problem - it's more volume based).

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