Hi,
I have a Husky 671-049 26 gal air compressor. It failed last week in this order: cooling fan broke (got noisy and would overheat after a bit and shut down) wouldn't charge to full pressure, slow charging, then finally can't get any pressure at all.

Before I ordered parts, I looked at the reed - all OK. Reassembled and waited for my parts.

Today I replaced the check valve, the hose from the pump to the check valve and that broken fan. Bad news - motor turns on, but won't build any pressure at all. I put my hand over the intake port - sure enough it is sucking in air pretty hard. I am at a loss. Should I disconnect hoses one by one, turn it on and see if air is comming out that hose's end? (just trying to narrow down the failure point). Does the fact that the intake is sucking in air say the motor/pump is OK? The fact that the motor is running eliminates the presure switch, right? (IOW the pressure switch just cycles the motor, it doesn't divert air flow right?)

If the air was leaking somewhere how would one ever find it with all that motor noise and the cooling fan blowing? Soapy water? Well I'm getting too deep, better wait for some feedback, I don't want to complicate what is hopefully a simple fix.

I could sure use some suggestions on how to track down the fault. I'm at a loss, thanks in advance for your help.

John

Wanted to thank you. I looked again. Sure enough the red O ring is shreded and there is a 1 inch gap around one part of the piston/cylinder mating surface. I ordered my parts today, will post confirmation of this working as planned tomorrows for other's future reference.

John

It works!! Thank you for your advice. Looks like my piston assembly and reed assembly had worn out.

I'd like to help others in the future re: Piston installation

1) have metric allan wrenches available. Use 5mm allan wrench to remvoe bolts on valve assembly. remove assembly.

2) Remove Motor Fan - use 5mm allan wrench THIS IS A REVERSE thread!

3) Unscrew and remove 4mm allen bolt/nut at and of piston by the bearing to loosen the connecting rod's hold on the bearing (you will not remove the bearing at all).

4) Use same 4mm allen wrench to unscrew the bolt from the center of the piston.

5) slide old piston/cylinder out, put aside.

6) Use a large flat blade screwdriver to start to carefully pry the connecting rod assembly off the bearing. Just do a little at a time, it will come off without a gear puller.

7) Note the orienation of the connecting rod, it only goes on 1 way.

Remove piston from connecting rod on new piston assembly.

9) Place new connecting rod on the bearing - slide it over the bearing as far as it will go. There is a stop built into the outside side of the rod.

10) Rotate motor to extend the rod as far foward as possible in it's eccentric travel.

11) Insert new cylinder - careful not to scratch it with the connecting rod.

12) Insert new piston from the front. Don't bother trying to force it in. Just hold it in position (it will center it self perfectly in a moment).

13) Insert 4mm allen bolt, and start to tighten. Note how it pulls the piston into the cylinder and is self centering.

14) Insert the 4mm nut and bolt at the far end of the connecting red (creates tension to hold it on at bearing end). It can go in either way nut up or nut down. Tighten this bolt.

15) Put the fan assembly back on. I used the #2 slot in fan (there are 2 slots #2 and #3). Tighten the reverse thread allen screw pretty hard. Mine loosened itself in minutes with a medium torque setting.

16) Stack the thicker grommet against the piston/cylinder. The reed assembly, then the thinner green grommet.

17) Put the bolts back and secure the reed valve assembly.

FYI, I was able to turn the motor manually and observe the new piston working properly.

Hope it helps save you some time.

John