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Very old Kellog Pump
- Jeger
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9 years 9 months ago #903
by Jeger
Very old Kellog Pump was created by Jeger
Hi Tech Support, I have a hand me down Kellog air compressor that i thought was running good but when i got it home i found it runs fine till it gets about 25lbs, the motor slows way down and air leaks from the front of the pump. i was told by mastertool it needs a valve kit so i bought one from you but i do not see how i can pull the old one out " looks like special tools are needed to pull and press them in". could i be lookig at another issue? my father chaged it to 120 and i have it in a pole barn that i had heavy lines ran to prevent volt drop and 60 amp. I realy would like to keep it running. Every one says a new one is cheaper but i just love keeping good old equipmet runing. What do you think?
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9 years 9 months ago - 9 years 9 months ago #905
by MTR-Admin
Replied by MTR-Admin on topic Very old Kellog Pump
Thanks for the post!
BTW, what is the model# of the pump? It should be a three letter model, i.e. "321", "331", etc..
This appears to be a 321TV Pump.
That pump requires enough RPM to keep the unloader weights retracted.
Since the pump is slowing down under load, the RPM is dropping below the minimum and it is unloading.
90% of the time, Low RPM is caused by OLD hard belts. Change the Belt, Tension should be about one half inch deflection or give at a point halfway between pulleys when pressed with your thumb. Do not over tighten belt, it will break the crankshaft or burn up a bearing.
Compressors do NOT squeal when the belts slip. It sounds like the motor is slowing down. But what is really happening is the belt is slipping.
I am not sure you have the right motor pulling this pump. The Pump should be turning about 500 RPM.
All depends on the Motor HP and the Motor RPM. If this was a 230 V motor converted to 120, you may have lost some pulling power. If it is the wrong motor not matching the correct motor pulley you may be overloading the motor.
That cloth around the motor looks like a fire hazard and it may over heat the motor, by the way.
You're right, there are special valve tools for removing the valve covers on Kellogg pumps, you can view them here:
www.mastertoolrepair.com/kellogg-valve-t...it-r3024-p-5482.html
Obviously they're not cheap, but a repair shop with have them handy. You may be able to use something around the garage to jerry-rig it so you can remove the valve covers.
Typically the problem you're having is related to Valves, so it was a good idea to order a valve kit. If the valves are sticking/rusted, you will get too much positive pressure built up in the craenkcase, which can cause an oil/air leak from the crankcase breather or somewhere else.
I'll see if I can get some more info for you and reply.
- MTR
BTW, what is the model# of the pump? It should be a three letter model, i.e. "321", "331", etc..
This appears to be a 321TV Pump.
That pump requires enough RPM to keep the unloader weights retracted.
Since the pump is slowing down under load, the RPM is dropping below the minimum and it is unloading.
90% of the time, Low RPM is caused by OLD hard belts. Change the Belt, Tension should be about one half inch deflection or give at a point halfway between pulleys when pressed with your thumb. Do not over tighten belt, it will break the crankshaft or burn up a bearing.
Compressors do NOT squeal when the belts slip. It sounds like the motor is slowing down. But what is really happening is the belt is slipping.
I am not sure you have the right motor pulling this pump. The Pump should be turning about 500 RPM.
All depends on the Motor HP and the Motor RPM. If this was a 230 V motor converted to 120, you may have lost some pulling power. If it is the wrong motor not matching the correct motor pulley you may be overloading the motor.
That cloth around the motor looks like a fire hazard and it may over heat the motor, by the way.
You're right, there are special valve tools for removing the valve covers on Kellogg pumps, you can view them here:
www.mastertoolrepair.com/kellogg-valve-t...it-r3024-p-5482.html
Obviously they're not cheap, but a repair shop with have them handy. You may be able to use something around the garage to jerry-rig it so you can remove the valve covers.
Typically the problem you're having is related to Valves, so it was a good idea to order a valve kit. If the valves are sticking/rusted, you will get too much positive pressure built up in the craenkcase, which can cause an oil/air leak from the crankcase breather or somewhere else.
I'll see if I can get some more info for you and reply.
- MTR
Last edit: 9 years 9 months ago by MTR-Admin.
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9 years 9 months ago #907
by Jeger
Replied by Jeger on topic Very old Kellog Pump
I do thik it is a 321. The old Emglo plate has model Q, serial 228673 if that helps. and thanks for the fast responce.
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9 years 9 months ago #908
by MTR-Admin
Replied by MTR-Admin on topic Very old Kellog Pump
Okay that's what I thought, I edited my first reply with more info, please take a look!
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9 years 9 months ago #909
by Jeger
Replied by Jeger on topic Very old Kellog Pump
see pic of motor tag. so ya thik it could be a motor drive not the valves?
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9 years 9 months ago #911
by MTR-Admin
Replied by MTR-Admin on topic Very old Kellog Pump
Just to be sure, measure these specs for me:
1. Motor Pulley Diameter (outside diameter)
2. Pump Flywheel Diameter (outside)
These specs will tell me exactly if the motor is working too hard or not.
Thanks!
1. Motor Pulley Diameter (outside diameter)
2. Pump Flywheel Diameter (outside)
These specs will tell me exactly if the motor is working too hard or not.
Thanks!
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