Campbell hausfeld WL611200AJ. Won't build pressure

7 years 6 months ago #1895 by RJenkos
Has a brand new cylinder and piston as well as valves and gaskets.

Compressor runs much quieter than I have ever heard it run. With the tank pipe off it's blowing air out like crazy. It gets to about 30psi and stays there forever.
The first time I took it back apart because I obviously made a mistake (it was very loud) and put the gaskets back on according to the parts diagram from this site. Before and after the mistake it still only got to about 30 psi.

I see it does have a check valve, so I'll look at that today. Any other suggestions I can look at as well? I have a lot of projects backed up and need my air back so I can get to work!

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7 years 6 months ago #1897 by MTR-Admin
Thanks for the post!

My first guess would be that your Check Valve is clogged or faulty. If the ball and spring (or diaphragm) in the Check Valve is missing, rusted or clogged up, this could certainly be the cause of your problem.

You can find a full breakdown of this unit on our website at the below link:

www.mastertoolrepair.com/portable-oil-fr...611200-p-746907.html

Let me know what you find when you remove and inspect the Check Valve.

- MTR

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7 years 5 months ago #1912 by RJenkos
The check valve is working fine. That's just a spring loaded plastic disc. I'm not sure what else to check. It's too quiet to have an air leak. I suppose I have to pull the compressor head back apart and see if I missed something.

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7 years 5 months ago #1913 by RJenkos
Ok I think I see a potential problem. I see #5 and #6 in the pump diagram. I wonder if the reed in #5 is opening or if it's being blocked by the gasket therefore it can't pull enough air in. Also hence it's quiet and the motor stops turning right away when it's switched off.

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7 years 5 months ago - 7 years 5 months ago #1914 by MTR-Admin
Yes, it's certainly a possibility that your Intake Valve (#5) is not opening and closing as it should, so as to not allow for maximum compression. The #6 Gasket could be the culprit, but it would require taking the Head off and inspecting it.

Also, make sure you have no tears, nicks or cuts in the Piston Ring, especially around the perimeter of the Ring where it seals with the Cylinder wall. This is a very common problem, and even a small tear will decrease compression quite a bit.

Make sure that when you turn the crank by hand so that the Piston moves up and down, you see no gap at all between the Ring and the Cylinder wall, in its compression stroke. Any perceivable gap is not good and shows signs of wear, which will decrease compression.

Let me know what you find and we'll go from there.

- MTR

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7 years 5 months ago #1915 by RJenkos
The piston and cylinder is brand new. The old one was missing 1/4 of the ring.

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